Destination: Ifugao

A Philippine destination famous the world over for its World Heritage Site at the Banaue Rice Terraces, the Philippine province of Ifugao is probably the most visited of the mountain provinces of Central Luzon.

Most legends have it that the Ifugao province was named after the Ifugao River; however, the locals (and many a scholar from Manila and further afar) disagree. Some say the name came from the term Ipugo – “from the hill” – an apt definition given the province’s topography; but this may be wrong as Ifugao tribal mythology has it that Ipugo is actually the name of the rice grain given to them by their god, Matungulan. Whichever definition is true, most visitors agree that Ifugao is a breathtakingly beautiful province, and if you have just traveled up into the mountains from the hot and humid lowlands during summer, Ifugao is, literally, a breath of cool fresh air.

One of the easiest of the outlying provinces to reach by road, you can travel into Ifugao via the National Highway that runs roughly north to south through the province. The southern route from Bagabag in Nueva Vizcaya is very easy to drive and navigate. This route to Ifugao is well signposted, full of spectacular mountain views – perfect for those Kodak moments, and provides timely stops as some of the many roadside pasalubong (gift) stalls that sell native crafts, furniture and wood carvings. This good surfaced road continues up into the north of Ifugao, a few kilometers north of Banaue, where it deteriorates (badly); first becoming graded, and then loose gravel. This stretch of gravel surfaced National Highway is the northern route into Ifugao province from Bontoc in the Mountain Province. While conventional cars can be used (at least in the dry season), if you want to travel on the northernmost stretch of this road through Ifugao, you should seriously consider travel in a 4x4, SUV or similar high-ground clearance, rugged vehicle.

In addition to the north-south National Highway, there is also a much less used western entrance route to Ifugao. This is via a secondary road from just north of Buguias in Benguet. The road runs directly to Banaue, but road conditions vary very considerably, depending on what weather conditions have been, so expect a very bumpy ride!

Without doubt, Ifugao’s most famous attraction is the UNESCO World Heritage Site at the Banaue Rice Terraces. Historians may disagree on the exact date the indigenous Batad people begun the slow and laborious task of cutting the terraces, but their work has certainly stood the test of time. Archeologists have determined that the terraces have stood on this site for between 2,000 and 3,000 years. Covering a large area 5,000 feet up the mountainside, most of the terraces are still in active use growing both rice and vegetables in the cool mountain air. The views of the Banaue Rice terraces are truly magnificent and it is no wonder these terraces have been dubbed the “Eighth Wonder of the World.”

Ifugaos are renowned for native craft skills, such as weaving and wood carving. This means that the area around Banaue not only sells many of the vegetable produce from the terraces, but also has many shops and stalls that sell exotic native handicrafts.

Probably the best place to haggle for trinkets and carvings is about four road kilometers north of Banaue town itself, at the Banaue View Point. This area not only provides spectacular views of the Banaue Rice Terraces, but also has a number of tasty eateries and many, (many), souvenir stalls. This viewpoint is also famous as a photo spot, not just of the Banaue rice terraces, but also the colorful, local characters that are happy to have their photo taken with you for a few pesos,.

Drive around a hour southwest on the well signposted road from Banaue and you arrive at the small town of Hungduan, home of the Hapao Terraces. While I must admit that their scale and grandeur is not as impressive as Banaue, these stone walled rice terraces, built around the year 650AD, are certainly worth a visit, as is the nearby Mt. Napulawan. Hungduan town is also the location of the Tungoh Ad Hungduan Festival in mid April. This festival features a host of ethnic Ifugao games, rituals, arts and crafts-oriented activities and is very popular with visitors and locals alike. 

An Ifugao Ecological Village is located around 11-kilometers north of Banaue town. The village contains a number of different dwelling types, each with information on its name and its use. The village also has a traveler’s rest and picnic area with a large swimming pool fed by clean, natural spring water, swimming here is a shivering attractive activity after a hour or so wandering around the ethnic village.

Like the majority of people who have traveled to and around Ifugao, I can certainly recommend at least a couple of days in the southern part of the province. Although there is little to no nightlife, the views and ambience of the area make the trip worthwhile - and good roads in the southern part of Ifugao province make the trip much more enjoyable than some of the other Philippine mountain provinces.