Destination: Palawan

Palawan, the Philippines’ “last ecological frontier”, is the Philippine province where a tourist’s dream of an unspoiled tropical island paradise is still a reality. An idyllic tourist destination with pristine white beaches, life filled coral reefs, and mountains carpeted with un-spoilt tropical rainforest whose thick, luscious canopies of multihued green foliage ease away the summer sun’s glare, all band together to make Palawan an ideal spot for nature lovers, adventure trekkers, walkers, divers and mountain bike enthusiasts. With island wide accommodation from backpacker’s pensions to five-star island resorts, Palawan province has something for everyone.

Palawan’s capital city, Puerto Princesa is easy to reach via both sea and air. Although Puerto Princesa city is large – in fact the Philippines second largest city by area – it’s easy and cheap to traverse, and the main streets seem much wider (and cleaner) than the norm in older Philippine cities. Puerto Princesa has accommodation in plenty for high-end, mid-range and budget travelers; in fact, Palawan is one of the few Philippine provinces that caters to backpackers, with hostels, budget accommodation and plentiful meeting places. Puerto Princesa is also the location of a host of restaurants to suit every taste and pocket book.

Just outside the city proper, head a little south and you find a rather charming butterfly farm, crocodile farm and mini zoo. All of these are reachable via the low-cost, large local trikes (that actually comfortably fit a western rear and have head room to spare!). Head north of the city into Palawan proper and you find many quaint hot spring spas and mini spa resorts along the roadside. You will also find the ever popular Vietnamese Village; where people come from miles around to sample the delicious, but sometimes oh-so eye-wateringly hot and spicy food.

Less than 30-minutes north of Puerto Princesa City, Palawan’s Honda Bay is the place for sun lovers, water sports enthusiasts, and those who just want to relax and soak up the ambiance of a sun-soaked, tropical island paradise. Most of the islands of Honda Bay have immaculate white sand beaches, and many contain resorts large and small to suit every budget.

A Palawan destination on most visitors’ 'must see' itinerary is Sabang Beach, the stepping off point to one of Palawan’s World Heritage Sites, the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park (St. Paul Underground River).

The world’s longest underground river, the play of light and color from the water and up onto the cave walls and stalagmite formations give the cave entrance an eerie glow – a haunting and unforgettable sight. The river meanders deep under St. Paul Mountain and escapes to sea just north of the delightful seaside village of Sabang.

To get to the Subterranean River cave mouth and travel into it, you simply board one of the many bancas available at the small pier in Sabang. To visit the this natural wonder, there are many tour busses that make the trip each morning from Puerto Princesa to Sabang and return in the afternoon. Of course, you could stop and enjoy a few care-free days at a resort on Sabang's beautiful beach itself, or a little inland at one of the eco resorts located on the edge of the national park. These are well appointed and have the advantage that you get to see and enjoy the many local animals that wander freely, such as the famous Palawan Bear Cat.

Divers of all levels of expertise flock to experience the wonders to be found in and among the 11,000 square kilometers of coral reefs surrounding Palawan. An area Jacques Costeau described as having, “one of the most beautiful seascapes in the world” there are dive sites available almost everywhere around the main island and the many small islands that make up Palawan province.

To the north of Palawan’s main island sits the Coron group of islands. Of these, Busuanga Island is famous as a preeminent wreck-dive area, with many WWII and older wrecks lying in various depths of water. The islands and islets offshore around Palawan’s north eastern  area, El Nido, are also packed with sites that attract divers from all over the world. However, for real die-hard divers, the Philippines’ first National Marine Park, now a UNESCO protected World Heritage Site, Tubbataha Reef, is a must visit. The crystal clear, aqua blue green waters of this world-renowned, 33,200-hectare reef are overflowing with a bountiful abundance of marine flora and fauna; including, dolphins, whales, sea cows (locally called “dugong”), whale sharks, hammerhead sharks, manta rays, hawksbill, green sea turtles - and a host of other species.

One of the most pleasant aspects of a trip to Palawan is that the island provides one of the few places in the Philippines where you can get away from the maddening crowds and tour around yourself. Through hire cars are rather difficult to obtain (without a driver), motorbikes for hire are easy to find, and relatively cheap – especially in Puerto Princesa. The only problem with this mode of transport is that they are a little bruising on the posterior after a couple of hours riding over the islands rough gravel roads; and it is not for nothing that there are so many small vulcanizing shops – punctures are common. .

Over my years of living in the Philippines, of the 34 provinces I have enjoyed touring, Palawan was one of my first and, after repeated visits, it remains the province I feel most closely resembles the tropical island I envisioned when I first came to the Philippines. Palawan province, and even the city of Puerto Princesa itself get a definite thumbs up for tourists who want to see more of the Philippines that girly bars.