Destinations: Subic and Barrio Barretto

An area that has remained a popular Philippine destination for decades, and a location whose name is recognized worldwide, is Subic Bay. As the ex home of Subic Bay Naval Base, a massive US Navy Base which was in operation for close on a century up the US withdrawal in the early 1990’s, Subic Bay is remembered by all that served there or enjoyed liberty at the port, as well as many thousands more who have heard of Subic Bay through its in mention Vietnam movies. However, many people mistakenly relate Subic Bay to the town of Subic in Zambales – a mistake that visitors only make once.

Subic Bay itself if a large natural inlet, but the Subic Bay to which most people refer is the area where the naval base stood – and of course the rather more infamous Barrio Barretto, a nearby town  that gained its rather dubious reputation when the US Navy Base was at its height.

Travel to and from Subic Bay and Barrio Barretto used to be a rather time consuming and boring grind – both from Manila to the South, and Angeles City to the east. Having spent way too many hours stuck in slow moving traffic on the old overcrowded and narrow Philippine roads that used to be the only way to travel to Subic, the difference using the new SCTEX (Subic-Clark-Tarlac Expressway) is amazing – considerably less stressful and much (much) quicker. Driving to Subic Bay is a now breeze, from Manila its just a run up the NLEX (North Luzon Expressway) to Angeles City, then straight on to the SCTEX all the way to Subic. Even the short toll road at the end of the SCTEX leading into Subic itself is well surfaced and maintained, although you should note that here, (and everywhere else inside the boundaries of what is now Subic Freeport), unlike in other parts of the Philippines, traffic laws are very strictly enforced.

Subic seems to be a place where they really seem to have got it right, with facilities, attractions and infrastructure that meld well together to ensure that the area remains one of the most popular tourist attractions in the Philippines. Although Subic Freeport area used to be the largest U.S. Naval base outside of the USA, its boundaries encompass huge tracts of un-spoilt, triple-canopy rainforests, complete with abundant wildlife, flora and fauna. With so much land area, and so many entrepreneurs willing to take the chance on investing in tourism, Subic Freeport’s many attractions include golf, yachting, diving, trekking, climbing, canoeing, (and white water rafting) go-karting, horse riding, shooting, tennis – happily the list goes on and on.

On the coast of Subic’s Ilanin Bay, well signposted from the southern side of Subic Freeport, Ocean Adventure Park, South East Asia’s only open-water marine park, remains a firm favorite with visitors. Subic’s Ocean Adventure provides regular shows from the park’s whales, dolphins and sea lions and visitors can watch the animal’s training sessions, as well as wade or swim with the dolphins and whales themselves. The Park also has tours around its many aquariums, or if you prefer to grab some sun, you can frolic in the waters the resort just a couple of hundred meters from the park’s entrance.

A rather famous Subic tourist destination is the 25-hectare wildlife sanctuary of Zoobic Safari park. This has long been a popular tourist hot spot, but over the years I’ve been visiting Subic and going to the park I’ve noticed huge increases in admission prices, and just about everything else available in the park, with little or no discernable increase in what is available. This said, Zoobic is one of the very few places in the Philippines where you can enjoy close encounters of the really wild kind, from bottle feeding baby tigers and bearcats, to fondling large pythons.

You can also watch wide eyed as the tiger’s big brothers and sisters chase your secure tour jeep through the tiger compound – though happily they no longer use live chickens to entice the cats to climb on the securely meshed jeep.

The park includes a well stocked petting area, filled with colorful and tame wildfowl, deer, cute little pot-bellied pigs, sugar gliders and many others, including some of Subic’s ‘infamous’ monkeys (note these monkeys in the park, and most certainly those on the roadsides around Subic are, quite categorically, not tame – you have been warned!

While in Zoobic’s petting area, be sure to check out the old sleepyhead bear affectionately known as “Nicolas Cage” - because he is the only caged animal in the compound. Also be sure to see the Crocodile Area and show, the Animal Care Center, serpent compound and maybe enjoy a pony ride.

A holdover from Subic’s the old U.S. Navy days, when many a US grunt endured pre-Vietnam jungle deployment training there, the Jungle Environment Survival Training (JEST) School is not only still in operation, but is now thriving as a tourist attraction.

In their quaint hilltop area JEST has a café, souvenir shop, and demonstration area. They have 15-minute demonstrations on basic jungle survival techniques, like using bamboo to light fires, find drinkable water, make a cup or utensils, and they also provide overnight or double night “jungle experiences” - where you learn how to find edible materials in the jungle and of course, spend the night under the jungle canopy - a must for any Rambo in training out there.

The JEST Area at Cubi Point is also the location of Tree Top Adventure. Set across the canopies and lush foliage of a multitude of huge trees, this is a sure treat for those of an adventurous and energetic spirit (and no fear of heights). For more details on activities and locations in Subic, check out the DOT website at www.visitmyphilippines.com and the Subic tourism site at www.greatersubicbay.com

Barrio Barretto and Baloy Beach

Just to the north-west of Subic Bay Freeport sits the ever popular Barrio Barretto and Baloy Beach with their many bars and activity packed beach resorts.

Back-in-the-days when Subic was full of young navy men looking for a good time, Barrio Barretto attained huge nighttime notoriety. In those heady days, Barrio Barretto’s girly bars were two a penny – and a night with one of the thousands of available bar girls not much more. Though now toned down (somewhat) from the days it was the hottest nightspot for servicemen from Subic Naval Base, Barrio Barretto has retained many of its old attractions – and a number of new ones – with many restaurants, clubs and bars stacked side-by-side all within easy walking distance of each other.

One of the great features of Subic and Barrio Barretto is that the available fun activities are not restricted to nighttime – or one age group.

Located right on Subic and Barrio Barretto beaches, and especially along Baloy Beach, available day-time activities include everything from specialist diving clubs and resorts, such as Johan's, to parasailing, jet skis to horse-back riding, banana-boat rides to fishing - and just about everything in between.

One great thing about both Subic and Barrio Barretto is that they are moving with the times. While both had become a little run-down at the end of the 90’s, the last few years have seen a revitalization, with refurbishments and new resorts and hotels springing up across the board, everything from cut-price budget establishments to quality and affordable luxury is now available – including the chance to bring the family and be sure they are safe and having fun while you do the important chores, like propping up the bar watching the footy.

With accommodation available from a host of hotels and resorts to suit every taste, nationality and pocket book, it is not surprising that both Subic Bay Freeport and Barrio Barretto remain one of the most popular destinations for Angeles expats, overseas tourists, and locals alike.